Sunday 24th August 2014
I shopped with Laura Malcolm in Tuscany. ‘How about mashing a tin of Whiskers into the mayonnaise for Vitello Tonnato?’ she suggested. Instead of tuna fish, you see. I was to revise Vit Ton for Ferragosto, having done a dry run of it for Connor Cadeaux and Cesar Kaiser the week before, with Val on mayo. That was when I said I’d commit if the veal was hard. It wasn’t. But it could have been cooked for less time. Val looked pained as the revision was discussed. It emerged that he’d have preferred the slices placed flat and coated with mayo rather than upstanding. I grew snappy.
At the end of our shopping, Laura and I suddenly remembered to visit the Cinzano corner. A few days before I had been dispatched to get Extra Dry vermouth for a guinea fowl dish but could only find ‘Bianco’. Although delicious to the inexperienced mouth, Laura was not satisfied with the result. There was no time to re-cook the fowl in Tuscany but it would have been too awful to know that a vital opportunity had been missed. We had to revisit the Cinzano corner to make absolutely sure that Extra Dry was not after all available. Great Mercy and Merciful Forgiveness, it wasn’t.
Buoyant, we left the mart. Our first course was a revision of the courgettes cooked on Sunday. Oh, I forgot to say about the mint. Twice on visits over 10 days I asked in the mart for mint. They said, ‘Try Arezzo,’ about 20 miles away. Then on this visit the Mart Fruit and Veg manager approached me in person – ‘Mente!’ he screamed and flung himself towards the chill cabinet. There it was! And, as a visiting Tuscanite I’d been remembered by the Mart Fruit and Veg manager! Also it meant we could re-visit the courgette recipe which on Sunday had had to be done without mint as well as with not the best courgettes.
So now at last everything was going to be right. I lingered over the vitello as it simmered. Anna del Conte says, ‘About an hour.’ Helpful. After 55 minutes it was still running pink when poked. I was sure it wasn’t supposed to be pink. I ran it another seven minutes. Then Laura Malcolm came by and said, ‘Surely it should be pink.’ Well, perhaps it would have been all right when first poked, or after a further 3 minutes instead of 7. It was quite all right as it was, but perhaps just a little less cooked… But for me it was the final flourish of Vitello Tonnato, eaten on the correct day of Ferragosto itself, for this year in Italy.
Revisions will have to wait for another year.
At the Ferra dinner we discussed hulk injuries. A hulk, if you recall, is the correct term for the traditional two-part Italian expresso machine you heat on the stove. We wondered what statistics lay down for our guidance as to the number of hulk-related injuries occurring every year. They blow up, you know, or splatter the curious who lift the lid prematurely to see what’s going on in the upper chamber. Matt Driver was informative, on a related topic, as to the harm done to humans by cafetieres in the Fulham neighbourhood.
So ends Tuscany for another year. We left Tuscany last Saturday morning for the very last time this August after 14 very happy days. We are glad to say we left it in a much better state than we found it.
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