We ventured into Suffolk for Benton End. The Duchess Throckmorton arranged it. Without her, perhaps, we’d never do anything. It was a private visit of course.
Beforehand we lunched with a Greek millionaire friend of the Duchess’s, who did that thing only country people do – having to lunch a whole gang of people they don’t know. The home was more than hygienic and the lunch excellent, not scratch, as well it might have been.
Nearly everybody else I know with a country house – I have to bring my own cleaning equipment.
Everywhere we motored the Duchess had got connections – an old sister of Cecil King’s for instance, long dead. Cecil King, you will remember, owned the Mirror and conspired with Lord Mountbatten to bring down the Socialist government of the 1960s in a military coup.
The Duchess did, however, refuse the Gay Mother’s mink. This was earlier. In February. She had a huge family wedding at the Fitzrovia chapel. We thought a mink stole would lift any outfit. It was dragged out of the Gay Mother’s chest and photographed for approval. But no, it wasn’t to be.
Arrival at Benton End took place. It was very hot and the place was rather drought-stricken. It’s being restored, garden and house, as an educational centre. The claim to fame is that Cedric Morris lived there and had a gay life plus an art school attended by Dame Ethel Bellows among others. He was both a gardener and a painter.
The house has some good old parts. There was an antique sink where Dame Bellows must have washed her early brushes. But really too many rooms Victorianised and a gloomy outlook of laurels presumably planted to screen the road outside. The garden a large walled area; horticultural archaeology, you might call it, in progress to attempt to recover bulbs and bits of iris actually grown by Cedric Morris. He died in the 60s and the property has been in other hands ever since. Could be nice… but the road running right down one side not enchanting.
The rest of the place is semi-wild with a huge white rambling rose planted by Cedric Morris the main feature.
You want to wish these ‘projects’ well of course.
Royston King paid a State visit to the Far West. He insisted on strawberries being washed and ordered chutney to be brought to be table. I said, ‘It’s not a restaurant, you know’, a phrase I find myself deploying more frequently with aging guests.
As members of the public, we visited Buckland Abbey, home of Sir Francis Drake. In the dining room, Royston King cast doubt on their Rembrandt, which indeed did not appear to belong to the house. The guide’s look was of a volcano about to erupt. At the same time, she was a pile of ashes. In the hall, though, Royston King praised the Tudor tiles and the dedication of the guide in that room to whom he awarded an MBE or appeared to.
I’ve known Buckland Abbey all my life. We are often on the private side as it was in those days at children’s tea parties and later drinks parties. Now the private house has fallen to the National Trust as a holiday rental. I remember Mrs Rodd (who the Gay Mother said was a Courtauld but later said wasn’t) presiding at tea in that house and telling one of her grandchildren not to lick the spoon and put it back. She wasn’t frightening. In those days upper class country women were distinguished by their brogues and headscarves, with an otherwise brown and navy colour scheme. She self-shopped though and her Austin Cambridge was often seen outside the shops.
The public part of the Abbey has been fiddled about with over the years. But is never quite satisfactory. It ought to be marvellous, so medieval, but somehow there have been so many layers of history – first of all the monks, then Grenville, then Drake (or the other way round) – they’ve wiped each other out.
In the afternoon we motored on to Cotehele, great Tudor home of the Mount Edgecombes, now National Trust. I paid an unfortunate visit there in October 2020. Masks, distance, house shut up, fear and dread incubated by the State stalking the land.
What a mercy I returned and that memory was erased. Cotehele is enchanting. Buried deep in the Tamar Valley and buried too in time, although modern Calstock can be seen from the terrace. An intact medieval ensemble outside and within shadowy tapestry hung rooms with marvellous slanting aqueous light from mullion windows. But these are actually a fantasy recreation of a Jacobean interior done in the 18th century when someone had the wit to buy up yards and yards of tapestry and numerous other kinds of fabric ‘work’ which were going cheap, being out of fashion.
But it seems so perfectly of its time and you are plunged back and cocooned. It helps that the Jacobethan style allows for that seemingly more random accumulation of items which brings a house alive, rather than the acutely staged decor of later periods.












